Gulai Ayam (Indonesian Chicken Curry)

The gingery, spicy, rich curry paste for this dish comes together in a stone mortar and pestle.

Ingredients

Curry Paste

1 (4-inch) piece fresh turmeric

1 (1 1/2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

6 candlenuts or macadamia nuts (see Note)

6 small shallots, roughly chopped (about 4 ounces)

6 small garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 long red chiles (such as cayenne), stemmed and torn into pieces

1 large lemongrass stalk

1 (1-inch) piece fresh galangal

6 fresh lime leaves

Curry

1/4 cup vegetable oil or coconut oil

2 large Indian bay leaves (see Note)

4 whole cloves

3 green cardamom pods

1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick

1 large whole star anise

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Chicken

2 bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (about 2 1/4 pounds), halved crosswise

2 bone-in, skin-on chicken drumsticks (about 12 ounces)

2 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 14 ounces)

1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened Thai coconut milk (such as Aroy-D)

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar

10 small fresh red Thai chiles, stemmed

Fried shallots, for garnish

4 cups steamed jasmine rice and cucumber slices, for serving

Directions

Make the curry paste

Char turmeric over an open flame until black in spots and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Scrape off skin using the back of a paring knife, and slice into 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick pieces. Slice ginger into 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick pieces. Grind turmeric, ginger, and 1/2 teaspoon salt into a paste using a large, shallow stone mortar and pestle. Scrape paste to the side. Add nuts, and mash into a paste. Add shallots, garlic, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt; mash until liquid releases and mixture resembles a chunky paste. Add long red chiles, and grind into a paste.

Bruise pale part of lemongrass, hitting with heel of a chef’s knife; bend stalk, tie into a knot, and set aside. Slice galangal into thick pieces; using pestle, gently smash on cutting board. Crush lime leaves in your hand; add to curry paste.

Make the curry

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium. Add curry paste, lemongrass, galangal, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, star anise, coriander, and cumin; cook, stirring often, until paste darkens and dries, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in salt.

Make the chicken

Add chicken pieces to Dutch oven, turning to coat with paste. Add coconut milk, 1/4 cup water, and sugar; stir well to combine. Bring mixture to a simmer over medium. Reduce heat to medium-low or low, and simmer, uncovered, 15 minutes, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer. Add Thai chiles to Dutch oven. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally and flipping chicken pieces once, until an instant-read thermometer registers 165°F when inserted in thickest portions of chicken and coconut milk thickens slightly, 55 minutes to 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Remove chicken curry from heat; remove and discard lemongrass, galangal, and bay leaves. Sprinkle with fried shallots; serve alongside steamed jasmine rice and cucumber slices.